A Beadboard Porch Ceiling Can Really Upgrade Your Space—Here's How to Do It

How to Install a Beadboard Porch Ceiling

1. Locate and Mark the Ceiling Joists

   If the ceiling is open, then the joists will be visible. You can cut and install horizontal blocking between the joists about every two feet to increase the available surface for securing the beadboard. Simply measure, cut, and fasten the horizontal blocking with a drill and construction screws.

   If the ceiling is covered, then you can use a stud finder to locate the joists. Scan the surface of the ceiling, then use a pencil or painters tape to mark the location.

   Tip

   Painters tape or a chalk line can be good options for marking the position of the joists because they can be used to quickly create a straight line along the entire length of each joist. 

2. Measure and Cut the Beadboard

   Beadboard comes in a variety of sizes and materials, including thin hardwood planks, 4-foot by 8-foot plywood panels, and broad PVC panels. Depending on the size and material used for this project, you may need to have a table saw to make long, straight cuts through large pieces of beadboard. Smaller strips of beadboard can typically be cut with a miter saw, circular saw, or jig saw.

   Measure and mark the beadboard material at the desired length, then use a saw to cut the beadboard. If there are any fans, lights, or other fixtures installed in the porch ceiling, you will need to measure the location of these obstacles and cut holes in the beadboard material with a jig saw.

   Additionally, if you don’t have a second person to help out, then you’ll need to build one or more T supports with scrap 2x4s to brace the ceiling.

3. Paint or Stain the Beadboard

   When installing beadboard outside, it’s necessary to seal the wood with paint or stain. While you can choose to paint the ceiling after the initial installation, this could leave some areas of the beadboard exposed to moisture. Measure and cut the beadboard required for the project, then paint or stain the wood for the best results.

   By painting or staining after the beadboard has been cut to size, this allows you to seal the cut ends and protect the beadboard from wood rot and mold growth. Also, the paint or stain will reduce the damage caused by exposure to U.V. radiation and severe temperature fluctuations.

   Just keep in mind that you will need to touch up any nail holes with waterproof caulk and a bit of paint when the job is complete. Apply a coat of primer and one to two coats of paint to finish the ceiling. Some beadboard material comes pre-primed. If this is the case, then you do not need to prime the wood.

4. Align and Install the Beadboard

   Broad, composite or PVC beadboard sheets can be installed similar to drywall or plywood. Apply construction adhesive to the back of the beadboard sheet, then secure it to the ceiling in the desired location.

   While a second person or a T brace holds the sheet in position, use a brad nailer to drive nails through the beadboard and into the ceiling joists. Continue installing beadboard sheets until the ceiling is completely covered.

   If the installation is using thin beadboard planks, then you will start by lining up the first board in one corner of the porch ceiling. The tongue side should be facing toward the center of the ceiling. Use a level to check that the board is straight, then secure the beadboard with construction adhesive and brad nails.

   Line up the second board and slide the groove into the tongue of the first board. Secure the board with construction adhesive and brad nails, continuing this process until the entire ceiling is covered.

   Tip

   Make sure to leave about a 1/4-inch gap around the perimeter of the ceiling. This is known as an expansion gap and it allows the beadboard material to expand out in warmer weather without pushing up against the edges of the structure.

5. Cut and Install the Trim

   Measure, cut, and install trim around the perimeter of the porch ceiling. Additionally, you can cover gaps between beadboard panels with strips of flat trim or with two-inch batten strips. 

   Simply measure, cut, and secure each strip of trim or batten strip using construction adhesive and brad nails. The goal is to create a uniform border for the ceiling, while covering the expansion gap and any seems between the beadboard paneling.

6. Seal Any Gaps

   Apply caulk around the edges of the trim to prevent water from being absorbed into the gaps between the trim and the beadboard. If there are any ceiling fixtures, like lights or fans, seal the gaps around these fixtures to prevent moisture from seeping into the ceiling.